We are overtaking another vehicle in a tunnel while exceeding the speeding limit three times, but the absolute poker face of Ramazan, our driver, has a surprisingly reassuring effect.

Ramazan and his friend Nahir cover the 110km from Şebinkarahisar to Giresun every day transporting various goods, so they already know all the best çay spots.

We got on the car in desert-like climate. It was dry, it was hot, the dust would drill and tickle our noses, the sun would burn the ground and everything that attempted to grow on it. Could someone smart please explain to me what bees can pollinate in the desert and how come there is local and organic honey sold over here?

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Not more than half an hour later, the whirling switchbacks took us to 2200m above sea level. Cold! It was actually cold, first time since leaving home in Katowice! Awesome! The mountains transformed instantly from rocky and bare into lush green, jagged, almost like our Tatras. I breathed in a whole gulp of what was actually air and not some dusty sediment. The village Kümbet, where probably no one ever comes by accident welcomed us as tranquilly, as only a village where no one ever comes by accident can welcome you.

A baker was kneading 2x3m of dough, a butcher was dividing a whole lamb, an old lady was encouraging passers-by to buy some cheese.

Ramazan and Nahir pointed at a bar and we all sat down to have some tea.

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